Photos from the Rhode Island Min Maker Faire a couple of years ago.
For anyone who has ever wondered where I get my ideas from, I find them in the trash.
I recently found a hollow Styrofoam cube, with one open side. It’s about 14″ on each edge, with walls about 1.5″ thick. I can just barely see overhead lights through it, so I imagine it will light up well with colored LEDs in it.
Most of my projects are on hold until I get a place to work on them. My current lab is about 11′ x 12′, with a little storage room off to the side. It’s not big enough to store my tools and provide a useful workspace, so I’m improving it in two ways.
The first improvement is to cut down on stuff. I own a lot of things that I’m not using, and don’t even have any really clear plans to use, so I’m collecting all that junk and putting it in boxes. Some of it is going to friends who
are worse hoarders have clearer plans for it than me. Anything that people don’t take is going to have a chance to get sold at the MIT Flea Market in April, and then is going to get thrown away. Once I’m done getting rid of stuff, I’m going to start tagging things when I use them, and get rid of the stuff that I don’t use for a year. I’m not going to be terribly strict about this, but I am going to give it a shot, and see how much of the stuff I actually want when it comes time to get rid of it.
The second improvement is to make a useful workspace. I used to have a large corner desk, which I used for all sorts of work. Since I didn’t have space for that in my current apartment, I got a smaller desk from a friend. It’s a cute desk, but it isn’t useful. The top has drawers that open over the desk area, so you can only get at the contents of the drawers if you don’t have anything on the desk. That doesn’t happen with desks I own. Aside from that, it’s too small to accommodate tools, a computer, and a project, and since many of my projects involve both a computer and tools, this is a problem.
To replace the useless desk, I’m building a new workbench. It’s a standing desk, with a 5’4″ x 3′ upper surface made of birch plywood. The underside will have some space for storage and my computer. Since the computer desk and the work desk will be consolidated into one workbench, I’ll be able to get rid of both my computer desk and my current workbench, and both the chairs in front of them, and the pads that protect the floors from the chairs. I’ll probably keep at least one of the chairs around, in case I need it in the future, but it won’t be in my lab.
The category of this entry “B Work” refers to work which is intended to accelerate the thing you really want to do, which is your “A work”. “C work” accelerates your acceleration, and so very little of it needs to be done in comparison to the other two.
The ToyBrain project has been on hold for a variety of reasons, mostly time and money. I finally have enough money to order the motor driver chips I wanted from Digikey. They are on back order, but should arrive near the end of the month. Once I have those, I’m going to put together a little video of the first boards doing a variety of motor driving tasks. That video will go into a Kickstarter funding round to get the second edition of the boards produced and populated.
At least one of the ToyBrain boards is going to end up hooked to a computer via the serial port at one end, and a vibrating motor at the other end. I’m reviving an old project to add a teledildonics plugin to Pidgin. It will allow a remote user to use commands like /harder and /faster (and of course /softer and /slower) to control the speed of the vibrator. That one may not make it into the Kickstarter video.
I found an interesting post about laser power ratings recently. It covers the relationship between PWM and laser output power, which is going to be useful for the power supply that I’m building for my laser. Once I build that power supply, I’ll be in the rather interesting position of having designed a cutting laser power supply that can be built from easy-to-obtain materials. Hopefully, that will knock the price down enough that more people can do DIY CNC laser builds. I may also make that PCB available as a kit, so people can build their own.
I also looked up TEA Laser plans again, and started wondering about making a dye laser. The TEA laser emits in the UV range. so it could be used to pump a UV-reactive dye. Vitamin b12 (in energy shot drinks) and tonic water both are UV reactive, so it may be possible to make a yellow or blue laser using a dye that is drinkable. Normally, laser dye is a toxic dye in a toxic solvent, so this would be pretty neat for the home experimenter.
I found a couple of neat sites, and figured I’d link them here so they get more google juice, or link sauce, or whatever combination of a wet thing and food seems appropriate.
The first is the MIT High-Low Tech Lab’s Kit of No Parts. This site has suggestions for ways to incorporate electronics into a lot of other materials, such as wood and cloth, to make more engaging interactive objects. Things like speakers built out of seashells are a lot closer to art than useful products, but that’s part of the intent. It also inspires me to build a device that records and plays sound, and hide it inside a very large seashell as an art project.
The second site is called How To Get What You Want, but that’s rather predicated on you wanting fabric sensors, odd conductive materials (felting wool!), hacked toys, and so forth. There are a lot of good ideas here, waiting to be remixed into other cool stuff.
I am working on a portable projector to take to an arts festival in Toronto. I was planning to power it from a 12V lead/acid battery, which would be stepped up to 110VAC by an inverter, which would then be stepped back down to 36VDC at 3A (regulated) to drive an 8000 lumen LED. Tonight, I hooked up the LED, inverter, and battery. It almost works, but the inverter is too wimpy to drive the LED. Instead what happens is there is a brilliant flash as the LED lights, the inverter output voltage drops, the LED driver resets, and then there is another flash and the cycle repeats.
Obviously, this will never do. The inverter is supposed to be good for 140 Watts, and so driving a 100 Watt LED sounds like it should be a piece of cake, but at 110V, the extra 40 watts is really only 360mA (W=VI, so I = W/V (Sort of. For non-resistive loads, there’s power factor correction)). If there’s any extra draw in the LED driver as it starts up, it could eat that right up. It’s also possible that the power rating on the inverter was simply a lie.
Switching to a 200 watt inverter didn’t fix the problem, nor did adding a 17,200uF capacitor in parallel with the battery. However, I did check the battery voltage immediately after running the system, and it was around 11.3V. That’s mighty low for a 12V SLA, so I’m going to borrow the 12V battery charger from work and try it on my batteries. It may be that I just didn’t have a sufficient charge. If that is the problem, it may mean I need to switch to a halogen spotlight, as the 12V batteries may discharge too quickly.
As I suspected in my previous post, I did put the ICSP header on my boards backwards (or more accurately, flipped along its long axis). As a result, I burned up the chip on one of the boards when I plugged the ICSP header in. I also took a closer look at the chip that I had populated two of the boards with, an ATMega48, and found that it doesn’t have a separate bootloader section. The quicker wits among you are realizing that I should have checked that before I soldered it down.
Since one board had a chip that had been operating as a resistive heater, and the other two had chips I didn’t want to use, I was left with one good board.This evening, I managed to burn the Arduino bootloader to that board.
First, I threw together an adapter to flip the ICSP header back to the right layout. Using that and my trusty USBTinyICSP, I programmed the fuses for the chip like so:
avrdude -c usbtiny -p m8 -P usb -B 32 -U lfuse:w:0xc4:m hfuse:w:0xca:m efuse:w:0xFF:m
and burned in the arduino bootloader like so:
avrdude -c usbtiny -p m8 -P usb -B 32 -U ./arduino-0022/hardware/arduino/bootloaders/atmega8/ATmegaBOOT.hex
For the curious, the fuse settings are the same as the ones for the Arduino, as documented here, but with the clock selection set to 8MHz internal clock rather than 16Mhz external clock. I used this fuse calculator to find the proper values.
Since that seemed to have worked, I removed the chips from the other three boards, replaced them with ATMega8s, and put bootloaders on them as well. Now I’m going to add IC sockets for the motor driver chips and see if I can get an LED blink program onto them.
When I added the ICSP header to my ToyBrain boards, I mirrored the footprint so that some of the routing would be easier. I did not, however, correct the actual wiring, so now the ICSP header comes off the wrong side of the board.
This is going to be easy to fix in the next revision, but for now I’m going to roll up a little adapter to get the boards programmed.
More later, when it’s closer to noon than midnight.
There have been two things that I have done several times over the last couple of years. The first one is having a bit of code control an inductive load of about an amp, be it a DC motor, stepper motor, or solenoid. My ToyBrain boards are a general solution to that problem, so I can just drop one in and write the code, instead of reinventing the wheel (or at least the controller for the wheel).
The other problem that I end up solving a lot is having a microcontroller drive an RGB led to make color fades and washes. This shows up in different forms in a bunch of my projects, and is not hard to do. However, I keep doing it, so I might as well have a PCB to make it easy. My goal is to have something that can drive up to about 30A, for three channels, with PWM. I usually use an ATTiny85 for this, along with current-regulated MOSFET drivers operating as current sinks. That actually leaves me with two pins left over for other purposes, so I’ll have some GPIO lines on the board as well.
The point of having general solutions like this is that it saves me from doing the boring parts of a job and lets me get directly to the interesting parts. These sort of programmable widgets are becoming so cheap and simple that they are effectively the dust that real things are made of. There is actually a term for this process: Ephemeralization. AM and FM radios are effectively ephemeral at this point. You can buy a single IC that does everything needed to receive AM/FM audio signals, or get the radios pre-made in units of a great gross from somewhere in China for pennies each. The case it is in no longer needs to look “like a radio” (whatever that means) because the parts are so small and flexible that you can put any sort of case around them and have a radio. Cameras (of a certain quality level, at least) have pretty much gone that way, cell phones and computers are going next.
What kind of world do you get when everything has a computer in it because it was cheaper and easier to build the thing around a general-purpose computing device instead of designing a single-use custom solution?
The ToyBrain boards arrived. I have populated four of them with programming headers and microcontrollers. Two have ATMega8 chips, the other two have ATMega48 chips that I salvaged from some thermostats that I found.
I haven’t bothered fully populating the boards because I want to check that the ICSP headers are working by burning the Arduino bootloader to the chips, and that the serial headers are working by loading a program from the Arduino IDE.
Assuming that I haven’t miss-designed the circuit boards or baked the chips while soldering them, this will provide a smoke-test for the computer side of the boards. I still need to get a bunch of SN754410NE quad half-H-Bridge motor driver chips to handle the output side.
So far, I’ve come up with quite a few applications for the little boards:
- Re-animating gutted toys with new programming
- Controlling a single stepper motor with step/direction signals and limit switches
- Driving up to 4 channels of medium-current LED lights (RGB plus white?)
- Making loud noises by using the quad half H-bridges as push-pull speaker drivers
- Solenoid drivers and control hardware for chimes
I’m very eager to get a few of the boards out to beta testers and see what other people come up with.